Cape Town's New Vibrance

CAPE TOWN, South Africa — A plump fur seal pup sat on the pier near the water taxi stop. Walking by in a flowery African head scarf, a woman ate kabobs skewered on a broken coat hanger. At an outdoor bar, a blond woman in an orchid prom dress poured sparkling wine into tulip-shaped glasses. Two policemen trotted by on beautifully groomed horses. Five blue-black men so tall and lean they appeared to be on stilts hovered over a dreadlocked busker playing a didgeridoo.

By BARRY ZWICK